Three Days in Counties Down and Antrim: A Journey of Quiet Shores and Giant Legends

Ballywalter and the Irish Sea

When I landed in Dublin, I didn’t linger in the capital. Instead, I hopped on a train bound for Belfast, eager to see the north. From there, I headed out to the small coastal village of Ballywalter, in County Down, which became my base for the next few days.

Ballywalter sits on the Ards Peninsula, a finger of land stretching between Strangford Lough and the Irish Sea. Like many towns in Ireland, its name begins with Bally—derived from the Irish baile, meaning “homestead” or “settlement.” True to its name, Ballywalter is a place where life feels rooted, calm, and local.

The wide sandy beach greeted me like an old friend. It had been months since I’d stood at the edge of such vast water, and while I instinctively called it the ocean, I was gently corrected—it is, in fact, the Irish Sea. Labels aside, its presence was no less powerful: shifting tides, gulls skimming the waves, and a horizon that seemed to breathe.

When I landed in Dublin, I didn’t pause to explore the capital. Instead, I caught a train straight to Belfast, eager to begin a northern adventure. From there, I made my way to Ballywalter, a quiet coastal village on the Ards Peninsula, which would become my base for the next few days.

Exploring the Antrim Coast

From this quiet headquarters, I ventured into County Antrim, where some of Ireland’s most iconic landscapes await.

• The Giant’s Causeway – A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this natural wonder is made up of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of volcanic activity some 60 million years ago. Of course, legend tells a different story: that the warrior giant Finn McCool built the causeway as a bridge to Scotland to face his rival. Standing among the stones, I could see why myth was needed—the place feels too deliberate, too awe-inspiring to be explained by science alone.
  
• Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge – Originally built by salmon fishermen more than 250 years ago, this swaying rope bridge links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede. Suspended almost 100 feet above the sea, it’s a test of nerves—but the views of the rugged coastline and turquoise waters make every shaky step worthwhile.
  
• The Dark Hedges – A tunnel of beech trees planted in the 18th century by the Stuart family to impress visitors arriving at their estate. Today, the trees’ gnarled branches create an eerie, beautiful canopy, famously used as a filming location for Game of Thrones. Walking the lane feels like stepping into both history and folklore.

Belfast: Closing Moments

My stay was brief—about three days—and complicated by the fact that my backpack never caught up with me before I had to leave. Still, I made the most of my last day in Belfast.

I wandered the grounds of Parliament Buildings at Stormont, where sweeping lawns and imposing architecture stand as reminders of Northern Ireland’s turbulent yet resilient history. Later, I found myself at a lively indoor food market—essentially a hall of permanent food trucks under one roof, complete with a bar. The mix of aromas, clinking glasses, and chatter was the perfect farewell to the city.

And then came the surprise: a Tim Hortons in the middle of Belfast. As a Canadian, I couldn’t resist. I snapped a photo and ordered a maple bar—a little taste of home far from home.

Looking Back

Though short and slightly disorganized (thanks to the missing backpack), my time in Counties Down and Antrim felt rich. Between the quiet charm of Ballywalter, the geological and mythical drama of the Antrim Coast, and the cultural hum of Belfast, Ireland’s east coast gave me exactly what I needed: a reminder of both wonder and simplicity. I left with a sense of both the ancient and the modern Ireland. It’s a place that lingers, like sea air caught in your breath.